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A Weekend at the Böd of Nesbister

Published on August 13, 2015 by Elizabeth 31 Comments
Last Updated on July 23, 2017

No electricity, no wifi – 48 wonderful disconnected hours.

Nesbister bod, Whiteness, Shetland

After our unfortunate attempt at camping on the top of Rona’s Hill, Shetland’s highest hill, for the Simmer Dim (summer solstice), my family (ie: my husband!) inwardly groaned when I suggested we go camping again, this time for the whole weekend.

I didn’t bother checking the weather forecast, as where I’d planned for us to stay was indoors – in an old stone fisherman’s böd built in 1844. In Shetland, a böd was a building used to house fishermen and their gear during the fishing season, and the Shetland Amenity Trust run a group of nine of them throughout the islands.

Nesbister Bod, Whiteness, Shetland

Our home for the weekend was the the Böd of Nesbister, the only original fisherman’s böd in the series, located in at the end of a low, rocky peninsula in the picturesque Whiteness voe on the west mainland of Shetland.

After packing the boot of the car with provisions (absolutely and utterly no screens were permitted!), picking up firewood and kindling from our village shop and collecting the key from the Shetland Amenity Trust in Lerwick, we arrived at our destination. It’s only a short walk from the car park area (you need to open and close two sheep gates to get there) across the pebbly beach to the böd.

Nesbister Bod door

The front doors of the böd are protected from the elements by a set of external doors held in place with a large piece of wood. There was something intensely satisfying about removing this plank and opening the doors to our new weekend home.

The building itself is a solid stone structure with very thick walls protecting you from the sea. During rough weather the böd itself can become an isolated island. As such, there is only one small window downstairs facing away from the open sea.

Nesbister Bod looking down from upstairs

There are bags of peat available for £5 each, and previous occupants had left a good supply of driftwood from the nearby beach. The kitchen area consists of a small solid fuel stove, two tables with benches and a large makeshift wooden table with a wooden board hanging above containing plenty of nails for hanging things. I really enjoyed unpacking all the food and cooking items and making this area my own.

Nesbister kitchen storage

Looking towards the back of the ground floor we found a hammock swinging from the ceiling, a collection of wellies and some fishing buoys – all of which would have washed up onto the beach. My children practically lived in this hammock when they weren’t playing outside! Again, there are plenty of nails in the wooden boards of the ceiling for hanging lanterns and supplies from.

Nesbister hammock

Up a narrow, steep set of stairs with a thick old mooring rope for a banister we found two sets of bunkbeds. There is another door up here leading outside and two skylights illuminating the room. Several art installations hang from the ceiling overhead. There is quite a collection of interesting things left by previous occupants from animal skulls, paintings and a collection of sea urchins with strict instructions to care for them.

Nesbister bar suppers
Nesbister art
Nesbister sea urchins

Nesbister Bod upstairs

After unpacking it was time to get the dinner on. As it was Friday our Turriefield vegetable box had arrived and there was a Shetland-grown aubergine in it, as well as a gorgeous beremeal loaf from The Quernstone. The light from the only window downstairs was so incredibly moody I just had to take a few food photos!


Dinner that night was simple. Tinned tomato soup with bread, olive oil and balsamic vinegar for the children, while my husband and I enjoyed some leftover defrosted Persian rice with tahdig from when his mother had been visiting recently with grilled wild boar sausages from the Scalloway Meat Company and grilled aubergine washed down with some Island Bere from the Valhalla Brewery in Unst, Shetland. This ale is made from beremeal (my new favourite ingredient!) and complimented our meal perfectly. My husband entertained us on his guitar, and the fire was roaring in the small cast iron stove, warming up cold fingertips. Perfection.

Island Bere, Valhalla Brewery
grilled aubergines

Nesbister cooking

Nesbister fire

After a good night’s sleep we woke ready for adventuring. I did have a moment where I went to go and check the BBC weather app to see what was in store, but quickly remembered we’d brought no devices! Although the weather was drizzly and overcast we didn’t let that stop us, and we headed out for a walk across the beach and to the top of a nearby hill, but not before I made my poor husband pose with my Mariner’s Compass quilt – the only proper pieced quilt I have ever made. It just seemed an appropriate place to photograph it. 🙂

Mariners Compass Quilt

Nesbister Bod, Whiteness, Shetland

Marsh Thistle
Bog AsphodelBog Asphodel
Heather

I was really surprised at the number of wildflowers I spotted on our hillwalk: marsh thistle, bog asphodel and heather (pictured above, left to right), self-heal, common butterwort, common marsh-bedstraw, eyebright, meadow vetchling, tormentil and yellow irises, to name a few.

By the time we returned to the böd the clouds were beginning to clear and the sun was shining. The children played out on the beach blowing extra large bubbles, my husband sat and basked in the sun and I got the lunch on – a simple lunch of leftover beremeal bread, Orkney cheese, olives and fresh fruit.

Nesbister Bod, Whiteness, Shetland

Nesbister Lunch

I enjoyed working in this kitchen space so much! Look how beautiful everything is with that light! I felt like I was in Pillars of the Earth by Ken Follett. All that was missing was some mediaeval horsebread!

The rest of the afternoon was spent sunning ourselves on the stone steps outside our front door, playing on the beach collecting treasures, watching the terns feed in the sea and generally doing nothing. It’s been an absolute age since I’ve done nothing and it was bliss!

beach treasures

blowing bubbles

Our youngest discovered that if he put the plastic bubble tube over the water pipe, it filled up with water and the pressure would launch it several metres away.


water missile

By this time we had friends join us for the second night, and it was time to get the BBQ on! Our friend brought BBQ skewers and Grill Heat Aid gloves which made roasting marshmallows in the absence of long sticks possible!


roasting marshmallows

The next morning dawned bright and clear, and we were awoken by the sound of birds pecking at the windows. A hearty breakfast of porridge set us up for another day of adventuring, which, to be honest, mostly involved sitting around in the glorious warm sun doing nothing again.

Nesbister bod, Whiteness, Shetland

Corkers

We’d recently been sent a case of Corkers crisps in assorted flavours to try out, and our family is a firm convert to the deliciously thick, crunchy texture and gorgeous flavours (from standard sea salt to sweet Thai chilli and Gressingham duck & hoisin sauce – my favourite!). Our local village shop stocks Corkers now, so we snacked on a bag while basking in the sun. The bag didn’t last long!

I also baked a batch of chocolate orange campfire cakes, improvising with the solid fuel stove I had on hand. They were so delicious!


My husband volunteered to do the washing up. Here we tested out another product we’d been sent to review – the new Ecover Platinum washing up liquid and scrubbing brush. It only stood to reason that since we were dumping our waste directly into the sea that we be as environmentally friendly as possible. We were quite literally dumping our waste in the sea –  there is a chemical toilet in a small shed around the corner of the building. An environmentally friendly compound added to the tank hurries up the decomposition of our waste before we pour it directly into the sea – the least squeamish member of our party was elected for this task – me!

Anyway, the dishes! Ecover’s pioneering new 99.8% plant-based formula really got the job done and the scrubbing brush was really effective for washing the porridge bowls. You can find Ecover products in most supermarkets.

Ecover #greenandclean


Speaking of keeping the oceans clean, for some hours we’d watched something blue floating towards the shore as the tide ebbed and flowed. Just as we were about to leave we noticed it had finally made it to shore, so we went to investigate. It was a plastic water bottle from South Africa! Shetland is located at 60 degrees North while the southernmost tip of South Africa is at 32 degrees South! That’s quite a distance for litter to travel! Food for thought?

ocean litter

Nonetheless, it was an absolutely fantastic weekend away from it all, and we have decided, as a family, that we’re going to do this every summer. The Böd of Nesbister has become our official summer cottage, and it only costs £25 per night to rent the entire place exclusively! We were all very sad to leave it after the wonderful weekend we had.

To find out more, visit the Shetland Camping Böds website.

The Bodda of Nesbister

Nesbister Bod, Whiteness, Shetland

Packing my Suitcase



North East Family Fun

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Elizabeth’s Kitchen Diary received samples from Ecover and Corkers, but paid for this holiday out of her own pocket. All thoughts and opinions expressed are our own. This is not a paid post.

Filed Under: Adventure, Shetland Tagged With: camping bod, Nesbister, Shetland, Whiteness

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Comments

  1. John says

    October 5, 2018 at 12:38 pm

    A great read I am hoping to go here next year as part of a bike tour. Thanks for letting me see what it was like making me look forward to it all the more now….Just need the sunshine now 😀

    Reply
  2. Colin says

    February 3, 2016 at 12:02 am

    Smashing post and lovely photos. I carried out a Google Street View photo shoot there in 2015 so you can take a virtual tour of the bod: https://goo.gl/maps/2iZXQrP3xzz

    Reply
  3. Life as Mum says

    January 31, 2016 at 5:38 pm

    What fabulous photos!
    Life as Mum recently posted…Blue or Pink? – Gender RevealMy Profile

    Reply
  4. MsXpat says

    August 24, 2015 at 9:16 am

    What an wonderful place to holiday. I have always wanted to visit the Shetland Island! Love you pics. Looks lke you had gorgeous blue sky days, I hope to visit one day when my children are older, perhaps with another family for companionship.
    Stopping by from Coombe Mill blog hop. Thanks for sharing your experience.

    Reply
  5. Pati says

    August 18, 2015 at 4:43 pm

    Great photo essay!!!!

    Reply
    • Elizabeth says

      August 18, 2015 at 5:19 pm

      Thank you! So glad you enjoyed it. 🙂

      Reply
  6. Karen Bell says

    August 17, 2015 at 8:40 pm

    What a wonderful relaxing weekend. It must have been so refreshing to switch off and explore the more natural things in life. It looks beautiful!
    Thanks for linking #LetKidsBeKids
    Karen Bell recently posted…Falafel pittas with Tesco eat happy projectMy Profile

    Reply
  7. Anca says

    August 17, 2015 at 10:05 am

    Your trip sounds amazing. The bod and the views are stunning. It’s a perfect place to spend a few days away. I love it.
    Anca recently posted…Wray CastleMy Profile

    Reply
  8. kellie@foodtoglow says

    August 17, 2015 at 9:01 am

    What an idyllic spot to stay, and you describe the weekend so well that I imagine there is a queue of people fighting to stay in it! Gorgeous images. How could they be anything less with your skill, eye – and that light!
    kellie@foodtoglow recently posted…Smoky Tomato & Aubergine Relish/Sauce {plus ways to use it}My Profile

    Reply
  9. Merlinda Little (@pixiedusk) says

    August 16, 2015 at 7:28 pm

    Its like paradise there! Amazing. Beautiful and I have so many wonderful adjectives in my head. One thing for sure I am so glad to see this beautiful structure. Thanks for sharing. #countrykids
    Merlinda Little (@pixiedusk) recently posted…A Mothers DayMy Profile

    Reply
  10. Cathy (MummyTravels) says

    August 16, 2015 at 10:30 am

    What an incredible escape – this looks like a proper adventure and just like stepping back through the centuries (although chocolate and orange is a definite modern bonus)
    Cathy (MummyTravels) recently posted…Family day out: London Wetland Centre, BarnesMy Profile

    Reply
  11. Coombe Mill - Fiona Cambouropoulos says

    August 15, 2015 at 10:32 pm

    You know how much I adore your Shetland adventures, This may be my favourite yet, what a wonderful place the camping bod is. I think it is the proximity to the sea and remoteness that makes it so appealing. How you managed those delicious looking dishes I do not know but you certainly turned it into a cozy summer home for you all and a bargain too. Thank you for sharing with me on Country Kids.
    Coombe Mill – Fiona Cambouropoulos recently posted…Country Kids from Coombe MillMy Profile

    Reply
  12. North East Family Fun says

    August 15, 2015 at 4:38 pm

    WOW – this is what I call a real adventure – I think it looks even more fun than camping! The setting is so stunningly beautiful! £25 per night is an absolute steal! You were brave not taking any screens with you – bet it was lovely to truly disconnect though. I’ve often seen those choc orange cakes on pinterest but never seen anyone make them in real life – they look delish! Thanks for linking to #traveltales – it’s been lovely to read this post.
    North East Family Fun recently posted…#TravelTales – The monthly blog link up for travel and days out postsMy Profile

    Reply
  13. rosemaylily2014 says

    August 15, 2015 at 3:59 pm

    Amazing photos Elizabeth. The warm fire looks inviting and the chocolate orange campfire cakes look and sound delicious. I’m not sure how I’d go staying out there but your photos do make it look very inviting! Rosemary, Le Chic En Rose, #MondayEscapes
    rosemaylily2014 recently posted…Our Adopted Home – Perth And South Western AustraliaMy Profile

    Reply
  14. kate @veggie desserts says

    August 14, 2015 at 2:06 pm

    WOW – your travel pieces are so amazing. I just want to visit immediately. No wifi, no gadgets and gorgeous light in a magical bod. Those chocolate oranges, that hammock, the peace. Seriously amazing writing and pictures.
    kate @veggie desserts recently posted…Cardamom Cold Brew Iced Coffee (+ Oxo Coffee Maker Review)My Profile

    Reply
  15. Ursula Hunt says

    August 14, 2015 at 12:55 pm

    This sounds like you all had a great time

    Reply
  16. Packing my Suitcase says

    August 14, 2015 at 7:05 am

    What a wonderful place to stay, not only because of the landscape itself, but also the house. So original and special!
    And if this blue bottle came all the way from South Africa, it was indeed a long long way!

    Thank you so much for linking up with #MondayEscapes 😀
    Packing my Suitcase recently posted…Saving money while in ParisMy Profile

    Reply
  17. Christine says

    August 13, 2015 at 7:05 pm

    Wow, amazing photographs and great write up. I was loving the idea of staying there until you mention having to dump the chemical waste, that would definitely not be my job!!
    Christine recently posted…The ghost villages of Salisbury Plain, WiltshireMy Profile

    Reply
  18. Sarah Maison Cupcake says

    August 13, 2015 at 6:35 pm

    It looks idyllic and I love your outdoor washing up technique.

    You need to google “Here Comes Bod” on YouTube to watch my favourite kids TV show from the 70s!!
    Sarah Maison Cupcake recently posted…Chilli Mussels with Pennoni Pasta RecipeMy Profile

    Reply
  19. Claire says

    August 13, 2015 at 6:11 pm

    What a great place, and I just love your atmospheric photos!

    Reply
  20. Keep Calm and Fanny On says

    August 13, 2015 at 6:09 pm

    What a fantastic post, I want to go right now! Sounds like you all had a great time, how lovely…
    Keep Calm and Fanny On recently posted…Les Oeufs BleuMy Profile

    Reply
  21. Claire @foodiequine says

    August 13, 2015 at 6:01 pm

    I knew as soon as I started reading this post that a Bod would be right up my street! Your stay sounds absolutely idyllic although I’m sure it could have been a somewhat different story if the weather had not behaved itself. Have now added “Spending a night in a Shetland Bod” to my bucket list.
    Claire @foodiequine recently posted…Peanut Butter Oreo MilkshakeMy Profile

    Reply
  22. Choclette says

    August 13, 2015 at 5:33 pm

    Elizabeth, I love your posts. What an adventure and well done for converting your husband to camping after the previous disaster! What a fabulous place it is and you’ve bought the whole place and weekend to life brilliantly.
    Choclette recently posted…Mango Carrot SmoothieMy Profile

    Reply
  23. Ciara (My Fussy Eater) says

    August 13, 2015 at 4:52 pm

    Beautiful photos. You are very talented. And I quite like the sounds of a few days away with no wifi!
    Ciara (My Fussy Eater) recently posted…Avocado & Strawberry Macaroni Pasta SaladMy Profile

    Reply
  24. Helen @ Fuss Free Flavours says

    August 13, 2015 at 4:13 pm

    What a lovely place Elizabeth. I would love to be unplugged for the weekend and really get away. With all our modern gear & camping equipment you can be really comfortable, but in reality it must have been a really hard life living there.
    Helen @ Fuss Free Flavours recently posted…Thoughts on Wanting to Visit Easter IslandMy Profile

    Reply
  25. jan yates says

    August 13, 2015 at 3:15 pm

    I was really curious about the ‘Bod’ experience so it was great to read this-thank you!

    Reply
  26. Rachel says

    August 13, 2015 at 2:24 pm

    Lovely! We saw a lot of the Böds on our travels and if we hadn’t had the Thunder Truck I think it would have been great to stay in one.

    This particular böd looks like it’s in a fabulous location and you had great weather for it by the look of it. Sometimes I think it’s best not to know. Let the weather be a surprise, if it forecasts sun that never shows then you are in for disappointment from the beginning!

    I love the idea of the choc orange cakes, that’s genius! Yummy!

    I became a bit obsessed with with the flotsam and jetsam on some of the western beaches, seeing where all the odd bits of litter had washed up from. I never found any as far a field as S Africa, most were more predictably Nordic or Russian. It’s so very sad.
    Rachel recently posted…12 Ways Shetland Will Amaze You!My Profile

    Reply
  27. Joski Byrne says

    August 13, 2015 at 2:06 pm

    Wow, what lovely images. It looks like a gorgeous place.

    Reply
  28. @chelscoult3 says

    August 13, 2015 at 1:48 pm

    I loved reading this post. It looks like such a cosy place to stay, I’m not sure how I’d manage with no electricity and no wifi though. Sounds like you had a great time, love the idea of campfire cakes.
    @chelscoult3 recently posted…Slimming World week 2My Profile

    Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Wonderful Wednesday 6 April 2016 – roast chicken and a country walk says:
    April 6, 2016 at 7:21 am

    […] 6. Planning holidays. As I’ve mentioned before, I LOVE planning. I love being organised, and I love thinking about what I’ll do, before I do it. What a weirdo. But it’s true. I’ve planned many many holidays in my time. To Egypt, sailing down the Nile on a boat to see the Valley of the Kings after 3 nights in a hotel in Cairo; to St Petersburg, making a side trip to Helsinki (possible by both ferry and bus); to San Fransisco, taking in Yellowstone National Park and a potential excursion to LA; and now I’m back to more realistic possibilities considering both time and money limitations – I’d love to go back to Scotland this summer. I love busy city break holidays, especially now I live more rurally, but there’s something so restful about being in the middle of nowhere. So I’m currently trying to find positively isolated holiday cottages, the more remote the better. I’d prefer to be on the National Grid though I think (some options were discarded due to lack of electricity – although Elizabeth and her family managed and thrived on a similar property in Shetland). […]

    Reply
  2. Let kids be kids linky 18/8/15 - Let Kids Be Kids | Let Kids Be Kids says:
    August 18, 2015 at 6:00 am

    […] loved reading Rain or shine mamma‘s and Elizabeths kitchen diary’s post of their beautiful screen free […]

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About Elizabeth

Mum of three, daydream adventurer, OU Life Sciences graduate, fitness enthusiast, ex-pat Canadian & quite possibly Britain's most northerly food blogger. Read More…

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